The Four Mile Trail up to Glacier Point

“It is by far the grandest of all the special temples of Nature I was ever permitted to enter.”

- John Muir on describing Yosemite

Although the name would imply that this is a 4-mile hike to Glacier Point, the Four Mile Trail is actually 4.6 miles in length. Construction of the original trail was completed in 1872, but over the years it’s been slightly rerouted and lengthened to moderate the grades and make them less steep. I guess changing the name now to the “4.6 Mile Trail” just wouldn’t have the same cachet.

The hike begins from bus stop E5 on Southside Drive under the imposing gaze of Sentinel Rock. There’s enough room for roughly 20 cars to park alongside the road at the trailhead. You’ll also have the option of parking near Yosemite Village and walking to the trailhead, or taking the free El Capitan bus shuttle.

We began our hike fairly early in the morning, just as the sun was hitting the south facing walls on the north side of the valley. The smell of smoke from the Rim Fire was already wafting through the air.

Just as the trail began to tilt upward we saw a black bear roughly 50 yards up trail, standing just off to the side. We stopped and stared at each other for about 30 seconds, until the bear decided that we really weren’t all that interesting, or we weren’t a threat, and then promptly disappeared into the forest.

Less than a hundred yards from the road the trail begins its relentless climb up to Glacier Point. As the trail climbs along the dozens of switchbacks you’ll have some outstanding views of the western end of the Yosemite Valley, including the Cathedral Spires and El Capitan, the largest exposed granite monolith in the world. Climbers from all over the world come to climb this towering rock formation that stands 3593 feet above the valley floor.

During the warmer months of the year I highly recommend starting your hike as early in the morning as possible, in order to take advantage of the shade you’ll have during much of the climb.

Roughly a mile from the trailhead you’ll begin to have your first full views of Yosemite Falls. The lower-to-mid portions of the Four Mile Trail are the only places in Yosemite National Park where you can see the entire waterfall from top to bottom, when it’s flowing during the spring and early summer months.

At roughly 2.7 miles you’ll have your first views of Half Dome. Continue on for another three-tenths of a mile where you’ll reach a short side trail that leads to Union Point. From this vantage point at roughly 6350 feet you’ll have outstanding views of almost the entire Yosemite Valley, including Yosemite Falls.

Once above Union Point the smell of smoke became more apparent. The haze was fairly visible towards the west, but looking towards the east we still had blue skies up above. At this point we were still holding out hope that we would have unimpeded views from Glacier Point.

Although there are a couple very short sections where the trail is exposed to some steep drop-offs, the path is fairly wide, and is pretty safe from my perspective. At no time did I feel uncomfortable, nor did Kathy, who has a much stronger fear of heights than I do.

At 4.6 miles the trail reaches the gift shop & cafeteria at Glacier Point. To continue on towards the overlook, take a left and walk another tenth-of-a-mile.

Extreme disappointment would probably be an accurate description of my feelings upon reaching Glacier Point. We had planned this hike several months in advance, but to see the entire Yosemite Valley shrouded in haze after finally arriving was unquestionably a major let down. During the late summer and early fall of 2013 the Rim Fire would burn more than 257,000 acres along the western edge of Yosemite National Park, and in the process, would become the third largest wildfire in California history.

Normally from this overlook perched at 7200 feet you’ll see the iconic view of Half Dome, North Dome, Basket Dome, the Royal Arches, Tenaya Canyon and Yosemite Falls. Dominating the landscape from this vantage point is Half Dome, which tops out at 8836 feet, and rises almost 5000 feet above the valley floor.

The Yosemite Valley was one of the first federally protected tracts of land in the world. In 1864 Abraham Lincoln signed the Yosemite Grant, which deeded the Yosemite Valley and Mariposa Grove to the state of California for protection as a forest reserve. Due to concern over damage from livestock and logging, John Muir led a movement to establish a larger national park that encompassed the surrounding mountains and forests. However, when Yosemite National Park was established on October 1, 1890, it excluded the Yosemite Valley and Mariposa Grove. In 1903 Muir took President Theodore Roosevelt on a three-day camping trip near Glacier Point. During this trip Muir convinced Roosevelt to take control of the valley and grove away from California. Finally, on June 11, 1906, Roosevelt signed a bill that would merge the Yosemite Valley and Mariposa Grove with Yosemite National Park.

On this day we continued our hike back down the valley via the Panorama Trail. In addition to hiking the combined Four Mile and Panorama Trails for a spectacular one-way, 12.6-mile hike, you’ll also have a couple other options for tackling this trail. If you have two cars in your party you can park at both ends of the trail and hike in either direction. You can also take the Glacier Point Tour bus, which provides hikers with a one-way shuttle. This option will allow you to take the bus up to Glacier Point and then return back down to the valley via the Four Mile Trail. You could also hike up the trail and then catch the bus on your return trip to the valley. There is a fee for this service.

If you decide to combine the Four Mile and Panorama Trails, the free shuttle service in the valley can be used to bridge the distance between the two trailheads. You may also want to note that you can purchase snacks and drinks from the Snack Stand at Glacier Point. If you’re going to depend on this for re-fills and refueling on your hike, make note of their open hours. Well water from a spigot is also available at Glacier Point, though it’s not the best tasting water in the world.


Trail: Four Mile Trail
One-Way Distance: 4.7 Miles
Elevation Gain / Loss: 3235 feet
Max Elevation: 7214 feet
TH Location: Four Mile Trailhead in the Yosemite Valley
Map: Yosemite National Park Trails Illustrated Map

Top Trails: Yosemite features 46 “must-do” hikes in Yosemite National Park, from scenic strolls, to full-day adventures, to spectacular backpacking trips. With at-a-glance information for each hike visitors can determine which hikes are most suitable to their skills, schedules and preferences. The book also provides elevation profiles, detailed maps, as well as information on which trails are child-friendly; where to see giant sequoias, waterfalls, lakes, wildflowers, autumn colors; the best photo opportunities; and which have camping, running or biking opportunities.

Sentinel Meadow & Cook's Meadow Loop

There are several locations where hikers can access the Sentinel Meadow & Cook's Meadow Loop. We chose to begin our hike from the Sentinel Bridge parking area, located just behind bus stop 11 on Sentinel Drive.

Hikers will also have the option of hiking the loop in either direction. In general, hiking the loop in a clockwise direction is a little bit easier to navigate. However, if you’re starting in the early morning and wish to avoid the crowds at the Lower Yosemite Fall viewpoint, I would definitely recommend hiking in a counter-clockwise direction. This hike description follows the loop in a counter-clockwise direction.

The absolute best time to hike this easy loop is during the spring and early summer months when the meadows are lush green, Yosemite Falls is thundering down the valley wall, and the wildflowers are blooming. As you walk through the meadows keep an eye out for shooting stars, western azalea, pine violets, evening primrose, baby blue eyes, larkspur, goldenrod and woolly mule-ears, among many other varieties.

The hike begins by following the Cook’s Meadow Loop trail northward until it crosses over Northside Drive. As you might expect, the views of the Yosemite Valley are outstanding here. During the spring and summer the meadow is carpeted in wildflowers. You’ll also have an excellent chance of seeing deer – we saw several throughout the day.

The loop then makes a left turn and crosses over Village Drive. Here you’ll begin following the paved path alongside Northside Drive. The unfortunate aspect of this otherwise wonderful hike is that you’ll have to contend with noise from traffic and buses along much of the route.

Just before reaching bus stop 6 you’ll arrive at the Lower Yosemite Fall Trail junction. Take a right here to visit one of the tallest waterfalls in the world. Yosemite Falls drops 2425 feet in three separate sections, and depending on which source you want to believe, is anywhere between the 5th tallest and the 20th tallest waterfall in the world.

During our visit the waterfall was completely dry. Because it’s fed by snowmelt, peak flow usually occurs in late May, and usually stops flowing altogether by late August.

The Lower Yosemite Fall Trail makes a semi-loop to an up-close viewpoint of the lower fall, and then exits on the west side of bus stop 6. The trail passes through a very pleasant forest, and is a nice diversion from the noise of the road. However, I imagine when the falls are flowing it gets pretty crowded here.

After leaving the Lower Yosemite Fall Trail you’ll cross over Northside Drive and begin heading over towards the Yosemite Lodge. When you get into the village there will be a residential area for employees on the left. Look for a bike path that veers off to the left before you get to the lodge. There won’t be a sign indicating that it’s a bike path, but it’s the only such trail in the residential area. From here the paved path traverses along the southern edge of the lodging area, before taking you into the heart of Leidig Meadow where you’ll have some outstanding views of the western end of the valley, including Sentinel Rock and El Capitan. Sentinel Falls, at 2000 feet and among the world’s tallest waterfalls, is also visible from this meadow. Despite its height it has a relatively low flow, and is usually dry by July.

The prominent view to the west is known as the Gates of the Valley. On the left are the Cathedral Spires, and to the right is El Capitan, the largest exposed granite monolith in the world. Climbers from all over the world come to scale this vertical rock that towers 3593 feet above the valley floor.

Soon the trail reaches the Merced River where you’ll cross over the famous Swinging Bridge. The views looking upstream towards Yosemite Falls and the eastern end of the valley are simply sublime – even when the falls are dry.

At the beginning of 1997 the park experienced its worst flood ever. As the Merced reached a crest of 23.4 feet, it destroyed roads and buildings that resulted in $178 million in damage, and stranded 2100 park visitors for several days.

Once you cross over the bridge the trail begins heading east along Southside Drive. This section of the loop also provides outstanding views of Yosemite Falls during the spring and early summer months. The meadow to the north of the road here is known as Sentinel Meadow.

Continue to follow the paved bike path all the way to the Yosemite Chapel, which is located near the Sentinel Drive junction. Built in 1879, the chapel is the oldest structure in the Yosemite Valley.

Roughly 35 yards beyond the chapel you’ll reach the Cook’s Meadow Loop trail. As the name would imply, the trail ventures into the heart of Cook’s Meadow. Once again you’ll cross over the Merced River, and soon will reach another trail junction where you’ll take a right to return back to the Sentinel Bridge parking area.

The Cook’s Meadow Loop travels over a raised boardwalk, which was put in place to enhance water flow, and ultimately return the meadows to more of a wetland environment and prevent the further encroachment of trees.

From Cook’s Meadow you’ll have some great views of Half Dome towards the east. This iconic granite monolith rises almost 5000 feet above the valley floor. In his Report of the Geological Survey of California, Josiah D. Whitney said that Half Dome "presents an aspect of the most imposing grandeur; it strikes even the most casual observer as a new revelation in mountain forms; its existence would be considered an impossibility if it were not there before us in all its reality..."

John Muir described the granite monolith in his own unique way: "The great Tissiack, or Half-Dome, rising at the upper end of the valley to a height of nearly a mile, is nobly proportioned and life-like, the most impressive of all the rocks, holding the eye in devout admiration, calling it back again and again from falls or meadows, or even the mountains beyond..."

We happened to hike this loop during the height of the Rim Fire, which burned more than 257,000 acres along the western edge of the park during the summer of 2013. Without a doubt the smoke and haze from the fire greatly impacted our views, which you may have noticed in some of the photos above. Speaking of photographs, if you wish to go home with some great shots of the valley, I highly recommend hiking this trail in the early morning or late in the afternoon.


Trail: Sentinel Meadow & Cook's Meadow Loop
RT Distance: 2.55 Miles
Elevation Gain: 40 feet
Max Elevation: 4000 feet
TH Location: Yosemite Valley
Map: Yosemite National Park Trails Illustrated Map

Top Trails: Yosemite features 46 “must-do” hikes in Yosemite National Park, from scenic strolls, to full-day adventures, to spectacular backpacking trips. With at-a-glance information for each hike visitors can determine which hikes are most suitable to their skills, schedules and preferences. The book also provides elevation profiles, detailed maps, as well as information on which trails are child-friendly; where to see giant sequoias, waterfalls, lakes, wildflowers, autumn colors; the best photo opportunities; and which have camping, running or biking opportunities.

Guadalupe Peak: The Top of Texas

After staying in Van Horn the night before, Kathy and I made the 60-mile drive north to Guadalupe Mountains National Park in the early morning darkness. My goal was to arrive just outside of the park in order to a get a photo of El Capitan, just as the sun begins to shine on the dramatic east face of the mountain that stands at the southern terminus of the Guadalupe range.

With an elevation of 8,749 feet, Guadalupe Peak is the highest point in Texas, and, is the 14th highest state highpoint. It’s also one of only four state highpoints that are located within a national park - Denali, Mount Rainier and Clingmans Dome being the other three.

The hardest part of the hike is at the very beginning in which the trail ascends a series of switchbacks over the course of the first mile-and-a-half or so. Hikers can use the parking lot and the state highway to gauge their progress.

During this first section the trail climbs the east face of the peak, which means hikers are fully exposed to the hot desert sun. I highly recommend starting this hike before sunrise in order to knock-out as much of this section as possible during the relative cool of the morning. It's also a good idea to start early so that you’ll have time to get off the mountain before summer afternoon thunderstorms arrive.

At roughly 7000 feet in elevation, and 1.7 miles from the trailhead, the trail skirts a relatively narrow ledge. Although not exceedingly dangerous, you'll still want to take your time through this short section of trail. Just beyond this point the switchbacks mercifully come to an end (although they'll inflict more pain on the way down). Soon the trail winds around the other side of the mountain and reaches some much appreciated shade. From here the grade becomes much easier and remains relatively moderate for the rest of the hike.

As we traveled upward we saw numerous Northern Harriers flying just above us. Up at the summit we also saw a few Golden Eagles and a couple of Peregrine Falcons soaring and gliding on the thermal updrafts.

At the second cliff section:

The photo above includes a young man from New Zealand and his girlfriend getting ready to cross the highest bridge in Texas. Just days before a 7.1 magnitude earthquake hit near his hometown just outside of Christchurch. It took a day or two, but he finally received confirmation that his entire family was alright. He said his dad, who happens to be a building inspector, was keeping extremely busy in the aftermath of the quake. The young Kiwi was working as a rafting guide on the Pigeon River in Tennessee.

Just past the bridge we began the final climb to the top. Over the last quarter-of-a-mile route finding became a little difficult. We made the same mistake a guy in front us made by missing the trail as it heads-off towards the right. Consequently, we took a route that required a little bit of scrambling. No big deal, it just would’ve been easier had we stayed on the main trail.

At the summit is a stainless steel memorial that was erected by American Airlines in 1958 to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the Butterfield Overland Mail Route, a 2800-mile stagecoach route that passed along the south side of the mountain. On one side of the pyramid is the American Airlines logo. Another side displays a U.S. Postal Service tribute to the Pony Express Riders of the Butterfield Stage, while the third side displays a compass with the logo of the Boy Scouts of America.

From the summit we could see a line of thick high clouds extending from one end of the horizon to the other in the far off distance (they say you can see more than 100 miles away). These were likely the leading bands of Hurricane Hermine that was pummeling central and east Texas that day.

Although the hurricane had no impact on our hike, hikers should always expect high winds on the mountain – especially during the winter months when winds can exceed 80 MPH on a fairly regular basis.

Looking towards the north from the summit:
Looking down on El Capitan and Highway 62/180 far below:
The park also recommends that you take a full gallon of water. I only took about 100 ounces, thinking that would be enough given the relatively cool weather that day. I barely had enough, however. During peak summer months I would definitely take the parks’ recommendation of one full gallon.

One final note about this part of the country: After our hike we had planned to attend the Evening Star Party at the McDonald Observatory 65 miles south of Van Horn. Every Tuesday, Friday and Saturday the observatory invites the public to view the universe through 16 and 22-inch telescopes located atop Mount Locke and Mount Fowlkes (6300-6800 feet). This observatory in the remote Davis Mountains offers some of the darkest night skies in the continental United States. Unfortunately Hurricane Hermine wasn’t going to allow that to happen that night. As the early evening progressed the clouds continued to thicken, so we decided to cancel our plans. However, we did hear a lot of great things about the program and sounds like it would be a great excursion if you’re in the area.


Trail: Guadalupe Peak Trail
RT Distance: 8.5 miles
Elevation Gain: 2927 feet
Max Elevation: 8749 feet
TH Location: Pine Springs Campground near the Visitor Center
Map: Guadalupe Mountains NP Trails Illustrated Map



Hiking Carlsbad Caverns & Guadalupe Mountains National Parks - is the only comprehensive guide to all thirty-six trails — both underground and above ground — in these two national parks. From deep caverns, to high peaks and backcountry canyons, these parks provide the perfect backdrop for an unforgettable experience.