Showing posts with label hike. Show all posts
Showing posts with label hike. Show all posts

Monday, June 30, 2025

Welcome to Discover the West

"The tendency nowadays to wander in wilderness is delightful to see. Thousands of tired, nerve-shaken, over-civilized people are beginning to find out that going to the mountains is going home; that wildness is a necessity; and that mountain parks and reservations are useful not only as fountains of timber and irrigating rivers, but as fountains of life."

 
    -- John Muir

The American and Canadian west is home to thousands of miles of hiking trails. From the glacially carved mountains of the Canadian Rockies and Glacier National Park, to the red rock deserts of Sedona, hikers can find a wide range of hiking opportunities to satisfy their need for adventure, or to simply find solitude in wilderness.

Discover the West is based on many of the trails Kathy and I have hiked over the last several years. We've put this website together to help you discover some of the best hikes the western United States and the Canadian Rockies have to offer.

Here you'll find a range of hikes in Banff, Jasper, Rocky Mountain, Zion, Bryce, Arches, Grand Canyon, Guadalupe Mountains, Yellowstone, Grand Teton, Glacier, Mt. Ranier, Redwoods and Yosemite National Parks, as well as in many of the national forests, national monuments and other public lands scattered throughout the west.

* To get started, simply use the Hiking Trail Directory (organized by state) located in the upper right column 


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Hikers can also visit one of our three sister websites, each of which offer comprehensive hiking trail coverage for Glacier, Grand Teton and Rocky Mountain National Parks:

* Hiking in Glacier

* Teton Hiking Trails

* Rocky Mountain Hiking Trails


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You can also purchase the mobile version of our new online trail guides for Glacier National Park and Grand Teton National Park:

Exploring Glacier National Park: The Comprehensive Hiking Guide from HikinginGlacier.com

Exploring Grand Teton National Park: The Comprehensive Hiking Guide from TetonHikingTrails.com


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The author of this website has also published these books:

* Ramble On: How Hiking Became One of the Most Popular Outdoor Activities in the World, which explores the rich and compelling history of hiking.

* Ultimate Hiking Guide to the Rocky Mountains: Montana, Wyoming, Colorado, New Mexico, which showcases 75 day hikes that lead to extraordinary places across the Rocky Mountain Range.




Saturday, June 29, 2013

Viva La Vega

The Santa Fe National Forest in Northern New Mexico is a gigantic 1.6 million-acre playground that offers hikers, horseback riders and mountain bikers more than 1000 miles of trails. With so many hiking options, we decided upon one of the local favorites, a destination known as La Vega, or “The Meadow.”

The hike begins from the Winsor Trail (#254) trailhead at Santa Fe Ski Basin, and immediately begins ascending the southeastern slopes of Aspen Peak. At roughly three-quarters of a mile from the trailhead, after climbing a fairly steep 600 feet, hikers will reach the saddle on the eastern flank of Aspen Peak. At the top you’ll pass through a gate to enter the 224,000-acre Pecos Wilderness Area. At 10,850, this saddle also marks the highest point on this hike. From this point forward the trail makes a gentle descent all the way to La Vega.

The first portions of the hike pass through a predominantly spruce-fir forest, which is also characterized by an abundance of Bearded Lichen, also known as Old Man's Beard, hanging from the branches. This is always a welcome sign, as it usually indicates that you’re in the midst of some very clean air. Old Man's Beard is extremely sensitive to air pollution, especially sulfur dioxide.

Roughly half-way to your destination the conifers give way to one of the largest and thickest aspen forests I’ve ever walked through. Although popular in the summer, this would also make for an excellent fall hike when the aspen leaves turn to brilliant shades of orange and yellow. One of the most interesting aspects of aspens is that they grow in colonies. A large grove of aspens could be the result of just one single seedling that spreads by means of its root system. While each individual tree within a colony can live for 40–150 years above ground, the root system can live for extended periods. One such example is the aspen colony in Utah known as “Pando,” which covers more than 100 acres and is thought to be up to 14,000 years old!

At roughly 2.3 miles the trail crosses over Rio Nambe, and at roughly 2.5 miles you’ll arrive at the Upper Nambe Trail (#101) junction. You should turn left onto Upper Nambe Trail to continue towards La Vega. From this junction the Winsor Trail continues towards Santa Fe Baldy and Lake Katherine, two other popular destinations in this area.

Hikers will travel along the Upper Nambe Trail for roughly one-half mile until reaching a tributary of the Rio Nambe. Almost immediately after crossing this stream you’ll reach the Rio Nambe Trail (#160) junction. You should turn left here. La Vega is roughly a quarter-mile away from this junction.

La Vega, as you likely expected, is a large grassy meadow. During the summer, from mid-June through mid-August, the meadow is filled with wildflowers, and is considered to be one of the most beautiful meadows in the region. It also offers nice views of 12,632-foot Santa Fe Baldy.


La Vega can be incorporated into a variety of day loops and backpacking trips. In fact, there’s a backcountry campsite on the far end of the meadow beneath a grove of trees with a small stream running nearby that would make for a very nice camping spot.


Trails: Winsor 254 / Upper Nambe 101/ Rio Nambe 160
RT Distance: 6.5 miles
Elevation Gain: Roughly 1400 feet
Max Elevation: Roughly 10,850 feet
TH Location: Near Santa Fe Ski Basin
Map: Santa Fe National Forest



Santa Fe - Taos Hiking Guide: - The Santa Fe­ - Taos area contains a wide selection of easily accessible trails throughout its mountains and high desert places - where outdoor enthusiasts can explore the diverse topography and ecosystems of northern New Mexico year-round. Now for the first time in one convenient volume, veteran local guidebook author Bob D'Antonio introduces you to 52 great hikes within an hour of these two towns. From alpine peaks to sage-covered mesas, northern New Mexico offers incredible hiking opportunities - and this guide leads you to the best.






The Cerro Grande Route

Roughly 45 miles northwest of Santa Fe are the ancient ruins and deep canyons of Bandelier National Monument. Designated as a national monument in 1916, Bandelier preserves the homes of the Ancestral Pueblo people.

Archeological surveys show that the Ancestral Pueblos began building permanent settlements in Bandelier by 1150, but had moved to new homes along the Rio Grande by 1550. The main portion of the park, in Frijoles Canyon, contains a number of ancestral homes and dwellings, kivas (circular, half-buried ceremonial structures), rock paintings and petroglyphs.

The last time we visited Bandelier we spent most of our time in Frijoles Canyon. This time we decided to venture a little further out and hike the Cerro Grande Route, a trail located in the fairly isolated northwestern corner of the park. This “Route” offers a much different experience as compared to the rest of Bandelier. Instead of canyons and deserts, the trail explores the subalpine and montane forests of the Jemez Mountains.

Destination for the “Route” is the top of Cerro Grande Peak, Spanish for “Big Mountain”, which at 10,199 feet in elevation is the highest point in the park. The path alternates through open meadows, aspen groves and pine forests. Even in mid-September we still saw a wide variety of wildflowers.

Through the first sections of the hike we noticed a fair amount of evidence of the Cerro Grande Fire that burned roughly 48,000 acres in 2000. The fire started as a controlled burn by the Forest Service, but high winds blew the fire out of control, and eventually destroyed 235 homes in the Los Alamos area. By no means, however, does the fading damage detract from the sublime beauty of the hike.

Be sure to keep an eye out for elk, in addition to the mule deer and pikas we saw along the way.

Most of the climbing comes in the last three quarters-of-a-mile or so. The hike ends at a fairly open meadow at the summit of the peak (which would be called a bald if it were in the Southern Appalachians). From the top you can see the Valles Caldera, the Sangro de Cristo Mountains and the Sandia Mountains. Due to a few trees at the summit, however, the views are much better just a couple hundred feet below the top of the mountain.

Cerro Grande Peak forms part of the rim of the Valles Caldera, a twelve-mile-wide crater that formed when the earth collapsed after a catastrophic volcanic eruption took place here roughly 1.2 million years ago – a geological event very similar to how Yellowstone was created. The eruption was so powerful it pushed out 150 cubic miles of lava, and shot ash as far away to what is now Iowa.

The prominent valley that dominates the view from the top is known as the Valle Grande. In the center of the caldera, and on the far end of the Valle Grande, is Redondo Peak, which, geologically speaking, is a volcanic resurgent dome. Although no longer active, it was formed roughly 70,000 years after the main caldera-forming eruptions occurred.

Today this valley is officially known as the Valles Caldera National Preserve. In 2000 Congress purchased the 89,000-acre unit, known as the historic Baca Ranch, for $100 million. A study conducted in 2009 determined that the Valles Caldera met the high criteria for inclusion in the National Park Service, noting its significant national value and unique, unaltered geology. In February of 2013, U.S. Senators Tom Udall and Martin Heinrich reintroduced legislation to transfer the management of the Valles Caldera National Preserve to the National Park Service. Perhaps someday it will become a national park.

Several movies have been shot in and around the Valles Caldera, including The Gambler, Buffalo Girls, Last Stand at Saber River, The Missing and most recently, Seraphim Falls, which starred Liam Neeson and Pierce Brosnan.

In 2011 another wildfire scorched much of this area after a large aspen tree fell on a power line on nearby private land. The Las Conchas Fire, the largest wildfire in New Mexico history, burned a total of 154,349 acres in Bandelier, the Valles Caldera National Preserve and the surrounding Jemez Mountains. In Bandelier itself, 20,798 acres, or 62% of the park was burned.


Trail: Cerro Grande Route
RT Distance: 4.4 miles
Elevation Gain: 1300 feet
Max Elevation: 10,199 feet
TH Location: 11.6 miles past the entrance to the Bandelier Visitor Center
Map: Bandelier NM Trails Illustrated Map



A Guide to Bandelier National Monument - More than a guide, this book includes a 38 page introduction which gives a brief description, from prehistory, European arrival, to the WWII era and its aftermath. Dorothy Hoard's use of photographs, and cleanly drawn hand sketches to show Bandelier's trails, from the Visitor's Center trailheads, State Road 4, St. Peter's Dome, and Eagle Canyon Pumice Mine trailheads. Dorothy gives the avid trail hiker, and the armchair nature enthusiast a clear idea of what the landscape holds, plus plenty of regional flavor sprinkled in with historical facts and information.





Friday, June 28, 2013

The Grand Canyon: Rim to Rim

For many hikers, a “bucket list” or “life list” just wouldn’t be complete unless it included a rim to rim hike across the Grand Canyon. I was fortunate enough to do just that over the Memorial Day weekend in 1996 with three fellow hikers. While the hike itself was no easy task, perhaps just as difficult was trying to coordinate all the required reservations - at least one year in advance!

Our plan was to hike down the North Kaibab Trail, spend the night at the Phantom Ranch, and then climb back up to the South Rim via the Bright Angel Trail the next day. To accomplish this we had to leave our car at the South Rim and then take the five hour shuttle to the North Rim. The day we arrived at the South Rim temperatures were in the 80’s, however, by the time we arrived at the North Rim that evening it was snowing!

After spending the night at The Grand Canyon Lodge, the only lodging on the North Rim, we took the park shuttle to the North Kaibab Trailhead at daybreak to begin our 13.6-mile trek to the bottom of the canyon. Starting off we dressed in lots of layers as the temperature was quite cold that morning.

Surprisingly, the hike begins in a spectacular alpine setting. As you continue down the trail you’ll quickly begin to see millions of years of erosion as you descend through the various geologic eras. You’re also likely to see guided mule tours as you proceed down the canyon. Some might consider this the “easy” way down to Phantom Ranch, but some of those folks didn’t appear to be having a particularly good time. We learned that mules prefer to hug the outside of the trail, which was a little frightening for some of the riders. I should note here that the park service emphatically claims that no one has ever been killed while riding a mule in the park.

This being my first visit to the deserts of the southwest, I was quite surprised by the amount of wildflowers we saw along the trail.

The first section of the North Kaibab Trail to Supai Tunnel is extremely steep, dropping more than 1400 feet in the first 1.7 miles. There are several sections where the trail is essentially a shelf on a wall. For someone who has a bit of fear of heights, I thought the steep drop-offs in some places were quite frightening. From Supai Tunnel to the Cottonwood Campground, the trail isn’t quite as steep, but still has an average grade of 10%. Once past the campground, with “only” 7 miles to go, the hike becomes much easier on the knees and follows along the bottom of the canyon until you reach Phantom Ranch.

Built in 1922, the Phantom Ranch is only accessible by foot, mule or raft, and seems like an oasis after an all-day hike. We arrived late in the afternoon and made our first stop at the Phantom Ranch Canteen where t-shirts, snacks and cold drinks are available. After purchasing the ceremonial Phantom Ranch t-shirt and a supersize Snickers, we headed over to our cabin. After a long day on the trail my feet were pretty beat up. Since our cabin sat along Bright Angel Creek, I immediately removed my boots and dipped my achy feet into the creek. Although quite cold, it felt great. While the cabins only have the basics: bunk beds, a sink and toilet, guests must go to a separate building to take a shower. What I remember most were the luxurious towels and the hot water…this was an unexpected treat for being at the bottom of the Grand Canyon!

Dinner is served at a pre-determined time and your menu is chosen at the time you make your reservations. I’m glad I went with the beef stew – probably the best I’ve ever had. After the ranger presentation we all turned in early - too tired to do anything else.

After an incredible pancake breakfast the next morning we hit the trail at daybreak, each with a sack lunch provided by the Ranch.

Shortly after leaving the Ranch we crossed the Colorado River via the Bright Angel Suspension Bridge, where hikers can look straight down through the grated bottom and see the raging river – another challenge for someone with a fear of heights! The hike up Bright Angel Trail is a 9.9 mile trek. While the first three miles from the Ranch are relatively easy, the last 7 miles are a long slow slog to the top. Since Bright Angel Trail is one of the most popular trails in the park, it’s also the most congested, especially as you get closer to the top. It’s no wonder why though, the views are large and spectacular.

About midway up a park ranger stopped all hikers from going any further for roughly 30 minutes due to a helicopter rescue. The next day we actually met the rescued woman in the airport and found out that she broke her ankle after tripping over some rocks. This is another reminder of how dangerous hiking can be, especially on the Bright Angel Trail, which was named as one of the 10 most dangerous trails in the country by Backpacker Magazine a few years ago.

Although tired and sore, once we reached the top of the South Rim I was overjoyed by a spectacular sense of achievement. At that time it was the most miles I’d ever hiked in a two-day period. After a well-deserved ice cream stop we headed over to our hotel, El Tovar, which is another one of the park’s National Historic Landmarks. This was the perfect spot to pamper ourselves after two days and almost 24 miles of hiking.

After all is said and done, some may ask “was it worth it?” Absolutely! As one of the Seven Wonders of the World, the Grand Canyon is a national treasure everyone should enjoy at least once in their lives.


Trails: North Kaibab Trail / Bright Angel Trail
Total Distance: 23.5 Miles
 * North Rim to Phantom Ranch: 13.6 Miles
 * South Rim to Phantom Ranch: 9.9 Miles
Elevation Gain/Loss - North Rim to Colorado River: 5760 Feet
Elevation Gain/Loss - South Rim to Colorado River: 4380 Feet
Max Elevation: 8241 Feet (on North Rim)
TH Location: Grand Canyon Lodge (North Rim) / Grand Canyon Village (South Rim)
Map: Grand Canyon Trails Illustrated Map


Special Notes: The park sternly warns that hikers should not attempt to hike from the rim to the river and back in one day, especially during the months of May to September. Over 250 people are rescued from the canyon each year.

Because the inner canyon air is so dry and hot, sweat evaporates instantly, making its loss almost imperceptible. The park website notes that your body can only absorb about 1 quart of fluid per hour, so drink 1/2 to 1 quart of fluids every hour that you're hiking in the heat. You should also alternate between drinking water and a sports drink with electrolytes. The park also warns that success in the summer can be as simple as staying off the trail and out of the sun between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m.

Hikers should also note that potable water is usually available in a couple of locations along both trails, but the park warns that you shouldn't rely on it. Check with a ranger, or trailhead signage, prior to your hike to make sure it's available.



Hiking Grand Canyon National Park provides first hand descriptions and detailed maps for all of the developed trails in the park - from easy day hikes suitable for novices and children, to extended backpack trips geared for intrepid wilderness travelers. The guide covers 15 hikes on the South Rim and 13 hikes on the North Rim. Also included are tips on safety, hiking with children, access, and services, as well as indispensable information about backcountry regulations, permits, and water sources.






Thursday, June 27, 2013

Guadalupe Peak: The Top of Texas

After staying in Van Horn the night before, Kathy and I made the 60-mile drive north to Guadalupe Mountains National Park in the early morning darkness. My goal was to arrive just outside of the park in order to a get a photo of El Capitan, just as the sun begins to shine on the dramatic east face of the mountain that stands at the southern terminus of the Guadalupe range.

With an elevation of 8,749 feet, Guadalupe Peak is the highest point in Texas, and, is the 14th highest state highpoint. It’s also one of only four state highpoints that are located within a national park - Denali, Mount Rainier and Clingmans Dome being the other three.

The hardest part of the hike is at the very beginning in which the trail ascends a series of switchbacks over the course of the first mile-and-a-half or so. Hikers can use the parking lot and the state highway to gauge their progress.

During this first section the trail climbs the east face of the peak, which means hikers are fully exposed to the hot desert sun. I highly recommend starting this hike before sunrise in order to knock-out as much of this section as possible during the relative cool of the morning. It's also a good idea to start early so that you’ll have time to get off the mountain before summer afternoon thunderstorms arrive.

At roughly 7000 feet in elevation, and 1.7 miles from the trailhead, the trail skirts a relatively narrow ledge. Although not exceedingly dangerous, you'll still want to take your time through this short section of trail. Just beyond this point the switchbacks mercifully come to an end (although they'll inflict more pain on the way down). Soon the trail winds around the other side of the mountain and reaches some much appreciated shade. From here the grade becomes much easier and remains relatively moderate for the rest of the hike.

As we traveled upward we saw numerous Northern Harriers flying just above us. Up at the summit we also saw a few Golden Eagles and a couple of Peregrine Falcons soaring and gliding on the thermal updrafts.

At the second cliff section:

The photo above includes a young man from New Zealand and his girlfriend getting ready to cross the highest bridge in Texas. Just days before a 7.1 magnitude earthquake hit near his hometown just outside of Christchurch. It took a day or two, but he finally received confirmation that his entire family was alright. He said his dad, who happens to be a building inspector, was keeping extremely busy in the aftermath of the quake. The young Kiwi was working as a rafting guide on the Pigeon River in Tennessee.

Just past the bridge we began the final climb to the top. Over the last quarter-of-a-mile route finding became a little difficult. We made the same mistake a guy in front us made by missing the trail as it heads-off towards the right. Consequently, we took a route that required a little bit of scrambling. No big deal, it just would’ve been easier had we stayed on the main trail.

At the summit is a stainless steel memorial that was erected by American Airlines in 1958 to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the Butterfield Overland Mail Route, a 2800-mile stagecoach route that passed along the south side of the mountain. On one side of the pyramid is the American Airlines logo. Another side displays a U.S. Postal Service tribute to the Pony Express Riders of the Butterfield Stage, while the third side displays a compass with the logo of the Boy Scouts of America.

From the summit we could see a line of thick high clouds extending from one end of the horizon to the other in the far off distance (they say you can see more than 100 miles away). These were likely the leading bands of Hurricane Hermine that was pummeling central and east Texas that day.

Although the hurricane had no impact on our hike, hikers should always expect high winds on the mountain – especially during the winter months when winds can exceed 80 MPH on a fairly regular basis.

Looking towards the north from the summit:
Looking down on El Capitan and Highway 62/180 far below:
The park also recommends that you take a full gallon of water. I only took about 100 ounces, thinking that would be enough given the relatively cool weather that day. I barely had enough, however. During peak summer months I would definitely take the parks’ recommendation of one full gallon.

One final note about this part of the country: After our hike we had planned to attend the Evening Star Party at the McDonald Observatory 65 miles south of Van Horn. Every Tuesday, Friday and Saturday the observatory invites the public to view the universe through 16 and 22-inch telescopes located atop Mount Locke and Mount Fowlkes (6300-6800 feet). This observatory in the remote Davis Mountains offers some of the darkest night skies in the continental United States. Unfortunately Hurricane Hermine wasn’t going to allow that to happen that night. As the early evening progressed the clouds continued to thicken, so we decided to cancel our plans. However, we did hear a lot of great things about the program and sounds like it would be a great excursion if you’re in the area.


Trail: Guadalupe Peak Trail
RT Distance: 8.5 miles
Elevation Gain: 2927 feet
Max Elevation: 8749 feet
TH Location: Pine Springs Campground near the Visitor Center
Map: Guadalupe Mountains NP Trails Illustrated Map



Hiking Carlsbad Caverns & Guadalupe Mountains National Parks - is the only comprehensive guide to all thirty-six trails — both underground and above ground — in these two national parks. From deep caverns, to high peaks and backcountry canyons, these parks provide the perfect backdrop for an unforgettable experience.









Avalanche Peak in Yellowstone

During the late summer of 2001, Kathy and I spent part of our two-week vacation in Yellowstone National Park. One of our prime hiking destinations for the week was a climb up 10,568-foot Avalanche Peak, located about eight miles from the park’s east entrance. We put this hike at the top of our itinerary because it’s one of the higher peaks in Yellowstone that doesn’t require any technical skills to reach the summit.

Instead of the pleasant weather we had experienced over the previous few days, we were greeted by dark and threatening skies on the morning of our hike. We decided it might be a good idea to stop at the Fishing Bridge Visitor Center to get an updated weather forecast before setting off.

The ranger at the visitor center, although friendly and very helpful, dampened our spirits even more. Not only was there a good chance of rain for the day, but she also warned us about the high level of grizzly bear activity in the Avalanche Peak area. Indigenous to this part of the park are whitebark pine trees, which, in late summer and fall, produce seeds that are highly rich in fat. The seeds are one of the preferred foods for grizzlies as they fatten-up for the winter, thus attracting them to this area during that same time period. Interestingly, the park's website now recommends that visitors avoid hiking this trail in September and October.

At this point we were a bit leery about the prospects for our plan.

Maybe we sound like a couple of “Chicken Little's”, but being from the Midwest we weren't really accustomed to hiking in areas where we’re second on the food chain. Hiking in black bear country doesn’t bother me, but grizzlies definitely make me nervous. Despite our limited experience in grizzly country up to that point, we were still aware that hiking in numbers tends to increase the safety factor. We decided to drive up to the trailhead to see how many cars were in the parking lot. If it looked like we were going to be the only hikers on the trail that day, we decided we would look for another trail elsewhere in the park.

We were quite relieved to see several cars in the parking area at Eleanor Lake.

However, as we began packing our lunch and gear it started to drizzle. The drizzle quickly turned into a downpour. For nearly a half-hour we waited in our car until the clouds finally began to break. Just as the rain was ending, another couple pulled into the lot next to us. We thought this to be a good omen. With the additional company along the trail, we felt a little more at ease about hiking in grizzly country.

We set off with our new friends in a light misty drizzle. Our companions, we found out, were a couple of summer park employees working in the Mammoth Hot Springs area. What a great way to spend your leisure time while working in one of the most beautiful places on Earth!

Almost immediately the trail begins ascending the mountain, climbing through a dense, lush-green forest of spruce, fir and pine trees. Even though the trail isn’t marked on the official park map, it appeared to be well maintained and was clearly visible along the entire route.

As the trail steepened the pace of our companions started to slow, so Kathy and I moved on without them. By this time it was becoming increasingly apparent that the hike up Avalanche Peak isn’t for the faint of heart. The trail gains 2100 feet in just 2.3 miles, which translates into a grade of more than 17%! To make matters worse the trail has virtually no switchbacks, which means there aren’t a lot of flat sections to rest legs and lungs as you make your ascent. Fortunately the rain had already cleared out by the time we reached the steeper sections of the trail.

Roughly two-thirds of a mile from the summit we reached a meadow just above the tree line - near the base of the large bowl below Avalanche Peak. We noticed four hikers descending the mountain about 150 yards up the trail from where we stood. About 200 yards above them, I saw what I assumed to be another hiker, dressed in brown from head-to-toe, cross over the trail. It took me a second or two to realize that what I was actually looking at was an adult grizzly bear moving towards the east. I yelled a warning to the four hikers between us and the bear. The bear also heard me, and looked a little startled as he stopped to check us out.

The summit of Avalanche Peak is in the far right corner of the picture. That small dark spot right in the middle of the picture, just above the copse of trees, is the grizzly bear.

At this point we were a little undecided as to what to do next. Do we turn around and head back down the mountain, or do we move up the trail to join the company of the other hikers for more safety? As we stood there mulling over our options, the bear suddenly became visibly agitated with my wife and I. Abruptly, he crouched down on his front legs and faced directly towards us. There was no misunderstanding his body language or the menacing glare he gave us; he wanted us off HIS mountain! Not to offend him further, we calmly started to back away. Fortunately, so did the bear. Just as quickly as he faced us down, he turned away and continued his eastward procession towards a grove of scrub pines. The bear was obviously more interested in stuffing his belly with pine seeds rather than a couple of hikers.

Feeling a little bolder, we walked up the trail to join the other hikers while we watched the bear indulge in a favored delicacy. After watching for several minutes, the two park employees we met earlier finally joined us. As we all stood there, the bear finally wandered over to the other side of the mountain. We now had another important decision to make: do we take the safe route down the mountain with the group of four, or do we go ahead and summit the mountain with our park employee companions. Our high altitude conference concluded that if all four of us stayed together it would be relatively safe to continue.

Our decision to move forward proved to be an excellent one. Much to our relief, with our periodic clapping and yelling of “hey bear”, we never saw the bear again. Even the weather cooperated with us. The overcast, drizzly conditions we experienced on the lower part of the mountain now gave way to billowing white clouds against the backdrop of a cobalt-blue sky. The final push to the top was a fairly easy scramble along the rocky ridgeline of Avalanche Peak. At the summit we were rewarded with an incredibly spectacular view of Yellowstone Lake to the west, the Absaroka Range to the north and east, and the Grand Tetons in the far off distance towards the south.

I’ve made several trips out west over the years and have had the opportunity to hike in some of the best parks and wilderness areas of Colorado, Utah, Montana and Wyoming. Not only was our trek up Avalanche Peak the highlight of our Yellowstone trip, but was undoubtedly one the most memorable hikes I’ve ever had. The combination of stunning scenery and the chance encounter with a grizzly bear made this a wilderness experience of a lifetime.

Before venturing into Yellowstone's backcountry it's a good idea to have an understanding of how to be safe while hiking in bear country.


Trail: Avalanche Peak
RT Distance: 4.6 Miles
Elevation Gain: 2100 feet
Max Elevaton: 10,568
TH Location: Eleanor Lake picnic area near Sylvan Pass
Map: Yellowstone NP Trails Illustrated Map



Top Trails Yellowstone & Grand Tetons - has all visitors need to enjoy for 45 of the best trips in the area: tranquil backcountry lakes, panoramic summits, glacier-carved canyons, steaming geyser basins, vast meadows teeming with wildlife, and much more. Hikes range in length from a half-mile stroll, to a 30-mile trek past intriguing thermal features and wildlife galore. Each hike features easy-to-follow trail notes, maps, distances and approximate times, and ratings and rankings for each trail.